Collar



(No Model.)

R. 'BUTTERWORTH. COLLAR.

Patented June 22, 1886.

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ilniTno STATES PATIENT Orrrcn,

ROBERT BUTTERW'ORTH, OF SOMERVILLE, ASSIGNOR TO HIMSELF AND THE REVERSIBLE COLLAR COMPANY, OF BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS.

COLLAR.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent N0.34r4,031, dated June 22,1886.

Application filed January 18, 1886. Serial No. 188,960. (No model.)

To ctZZ whom it may concern.-

Be it known that I, ROBERT BUTTERWORTH; of Somerville, in the county of MiddleseX, State of Massachusetts, have invented a certain new and useful Improvement in Collars,

of which the following is a description sufficiently full, clear, and exact to enable any person skilled in the art or science to which said invention appertains to make and use the to same, reference being had to the accompanying drawings, forming part of this specification, in which- Figure l is a vertical transverse section of my improved dies, represented as in position for 1 use; Fig. 2, a top plan view of the bed-die; Fig. 3, a bottom plan view of the upper die; Fig. 4, a front elevation of the dies with a collar in position to be molded; Fig. 5, a rear elevation of the dies; Fig. 6, a top plan View of an ordinary turn-down collar; Fig. 7, avertical transverse section of the same, taken on line 00 m in Fig. 6; Fig. 8, a top plan view of my improved turn-down collar; Fig. 9, a vertical transverse section of the same, taken on line y y in Fig. 8; and Fig. 10, a plan view of a blank or collar before it is folded.

Like letters of reierenceindicate corresponding parts in the different figures of the drawlugs.

As I propose to make the dies shown in Figs. 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5, and also the process of making the collar, the subject-matter of other applications for Letters Patent, I do not herein claim, broadly, either saiddies or process.

My present invention, or that forming the subj cot-matter of this application, relates more especially to that class of collars which are composed of paper or cloth-faced paper; and it consists in a turn-down collar of paper or 40 cloth-faced paper molded or formed in a novel manner at and near its folded edge, as hereinafter more fully set forth and claimed, by which a more desirable article of this charac ter is produced than is now in ordinary use.

In order that my improvement may be more readily understood by all conversant with such matters, I will now describe a set of dies which may be used in molding or forming the collar, and also the manner of using them, or 50 the process by which the collar is molded or formed.

In the drawings, A represents the bottom or bed die, and B the upper or movable die. The bed-die is provided with a horizontallyprojecting flange, G, at its base, which is cut away, as shown at f, at or near the front of the die. An annular groove, m, is formed in, the top of the flange O, at its inner edge, said groove being curved in cross-section and corresponding in contour with the form it is desired to give the collar at its upper or folded edge.

The upper die, I3, is provided with a down wardly-projecting annular flange or cylinder,

D, which. is cut away at the front, as shown at z, and at the rear, as shown at 1", said flange being secured to the body of the die by the screws 15. The lower edge of the flange D is rounded to correspond with the contour of the groove m, but is made narrower or thinner in cross-section than the width of said groove, thereby preventing the flange from binding or sticking in the groove when the body of the collar at its folding-line is forced down into the same in molding it, as hereinafter described. The flange D, at the rear of the die B, is also reduced in thickness on either side of the space 1', as best seen at no in Fig. 3, the object being to produce a thin place, 1;, in the web or folded edge of the collar, and at its rear, as shown in Fig. 8, so that the collar may be bent around or fitted to the neck of the. wearer with greater ease than would be possible if the upper edge was folded throughout its length on a large curve, as shown in Fig. 8 9, and without breaking or crimping at the back.

The object in cutting out the flange D at or near the rear of the die B, as shown at r, is to prevent the band of the collar from being 0 wrinkled or corrugated at that point by the molding process as the upper die descends.

The object in cutting out the flange O at or near the front of the die A, as shown at f, is to enable the ends k of the band of the collarto 5 be held by the fingers of the workman during the process of .molding, the flange D, at or near the front of the die 13, being cut, as shown at z, foralike purpose, or to prevent said last named flange from interfering with the hands of the workman.

In the use of the dies to mold or form the collar the collar-blank or unfolded collar, as shown in Fig. 10, is creasedin the ordinary manner on the folding-line, d, and turned down or folded in the usual 'manner on said line by the hands of the workman. The collar thus folded is then reversed or turned upside down and drawn tightly around the body or hub a of the bed-die A, its folded edge on the line d being disposed in or immediately adjacent to the groove m in the flange O, and the ends 70 of its band overlapped, as shown in Fig. 4c, in which position it is firmly held by the fingers of the workman pressing said ends against the hub. The die B is then caused to descend the flange D passing downwardly between the flap and band of the collar and forcing a portion of its body at the folding-line into the groove m, thereby permanently stretching and molding it at the web or folded edge, as shown in Figs. 8 and 9, in a manner which will be readily obvious without a more explicit description.

When turn-down paper or cloth-faced paper collars are folded and rolled in the usual manner, the web or folded edge 6 is left comparatively sharp or thin, as shown in Figs. 6 and 7, thereby injuring the appearance of the collar, and affording but little space for the scarf or necktie.

All turn-downlinen collars of the best patterns and quality, when properly laundered, necessarily have the appearance of being folded at the upper edge on a large curve, and, as it is very desirable in order to meet the requirements of the trade, to have paper and cloth faced paper collars made in imitation of the same, my improved turn down paper or clothfaced paper collar is molded or stretched on the folding-line d, as described, thereby permanently folding it on a large curve, as shown in Figs. 8 and 9,improving its appearance,

and affording space for the necktie.

The flange O is preferably cast or formed integral with the body or hub a of the die A; but it may be made separately or formed in any suitable bed, if desired. The hub a serves to assist in keeping the collar in proper position preparatory to and while being molded as described, and it may be constructed of any suitable materials and supported in any suitable manner, whether integral with the flange O or not, it being essential, of course, that it should rise above the plane of the groove m, and be arranged concentrically therewith. The flange D. may

also be made integral with the die B, if preferred, and not reduced at v, as described. The space or opening 1- may also be omitted, although I deem it preferable to use said space, and also to reduce the rear portion of the flange D at o, as shown and described.

I do not confine myself to having the die B work vertically, as the dies may be so arranged that it may work horizontally or in some other direction. The die A may also be arranged to move instead of the die B, if preferred.

By forcing a portion of the body of the collar at the folding-line into the groove m, as described, the web or folded edge is not only molded or formed on a large curve in crosssection, as shown in Figs. 8 and 9, but is also molded in such a manner by being crowded or forced down into the groove as to slightly stretch the stock of the flap longitudinally and slightly condense the stock of the band longi' tudinally at and near the folding-line between the flap and band, thereby giving the collara good spring and keeping itin better shape than when not so molded.

Instead of molding the collar by forcing it into the-annular groove, as described, it may be molded by folding it, and then forcing it onto or over the edge portion or end of an annular flange or cylinder by rollers or other suitable devices.

It will be understood that in use the die A is to be properly secured'to the bed of a suitable press, and the die B to the cross-head or plunger of the same, or vice versa, it being deemed unnecessary to show such press or the entire appliances for securing the dies in position therein.

I do not confine myself to making the collar with the thin or narrow placeb in the folded edge, although I deem the same preferable.

Having thus explained my invention, what I claim isi As an improved article of manufacture, the turned-down paper or cloth-faced paper collar herein described, the same comprising a band and a flap, the upper edges of which are apart from each other and connected by a curved web integral with said parts, the curvature ofsaid web at the back being on asmaller arc than at the sides.

ROBERT BUTTERIVORTH.

WVitncsses:

C. A. SHAW, L. J. WHITE.

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